The best rods for barbel fishing

Barbel fishing has become an increasingly popular branch of angling, with big fish being more accessible than ever. Now is the time to get out there and catch some of these majestic creatures, but you will need specialised tackle to do so, in particular, one of the best fishing rods for barbel.

Large rivers like the Trent, require big feeders, long casts and stronger tackle. The smaller chalk streams, however, like the Itchen or Hampshire Avon require more finesse. On these rivers you can try a mobile approach, light link leger tactics, freelining or rolling baits through a swim, which will require a much lighter rod that you can easily hold all day.

Best barbel fishing rods at a glance:

• Best In Class Barbel Rod: Daiwa Basia X45 Barbel Rod

• Best Small River Barbel Rod: Korum Barbel Rods

• Best Mid-Range Barbel Rod: Guru N-Gauge Specimen Barbel Rod

• Best Float Fishing Barbel Rod: Drennan 15ft Acolyte Plus Rod

In this guide we look at the best rods capable of handling the demands of barbel fishing and which are suitable for the type of angling you favour. Hit and hold on small rivers, or big chucks into fast flows on larger waterways, there is a rod for everyone below (even beginners to barbel fishing).

What to look for in a barbel rod

With barbel frequenting such a diverse range of venues, that can change so quickly with the weather, the tackle needed to fish for them effectively can vary massively. From casting large feeders and leads out on big powerful rivers like the Trent and Wye to rolling meat or trotting a float on more intimate rivers like the Hampshire Avon, the rod you choose needs to be upto the task.

If you mainly fish static on large rivers, it's best to go for a rod with some backbone. A barbel rod with a test curve of 2lb+ would be ideal as this will give you the versatility to fish a little lighter when needed but should there be some extra water on the river and you need to increase the size of your end tackle, the rod can easily cope so you don't have to worry about the changing conditions. It will also provide the extra power needed to guide really big fish against the flow and away from any snags so they can be safely landed.

If you prefer a more roving approach on smaller rivers or enjoy rolling baits like luncheon meat, a big, powerful rod would be very cumbersome, heavy and uncomfortable to use. In this scenario, a lighter rod ranging from 1.25-1.75lb test curve would make the fishing far more enjoyable and not be too overpowering that you can't enjoy the fight. These rods also tend to be much lighter to hold all day, there is nothing worse than holding a heavy rod all day that causes you to fatigue and not fish effectively.

Glossary

Blank: The hollow carbon fibre tube that the rod is made from, attached to which are the guides and handle.

Guides: The rings that line the length of the rod that the line passes through.

Reel Seat: The part of the handle that your reelattaches to. Almost all UK coarse rods have screw-down reel seats, where the fore-grip on the handle rotates and closes the seat to hold the reel in place.

Test Curve: Usually measured in pounds, it's the weight that needs to be applied to the end of the rod to make it bend over 90 degrees. The greater the test curve, the more powerful the rod.

Casting Weight: Depending on the manufacturer, it is either the best suited or maximum total weight in grams that you should cast with your rod. You will normally find your rod will perform best at around half its total casting weight. E.g. a 120g feeder rod best suits a 60g feeder.

Quiver tip: The very top (often brightly coloured) section of a feeder rod, used to identify bites, which bends and 'quivers' when a fish moves off with the bait. Like the test curve of a rod, quiver tips are often rated in test curves measured in ounces.

Fish playing action: A way of describing how good a rod performs when reeling in a fish. A rod with a good fish-playing action will provide plenty of cushion to a thrashing fish, preventing hook pulls (lost fish) and line breakages.

Progressive Action. A rod that quickly powers up from its tip through to its middle area, providing the ideal coordinated playing action for powerful fish.

Tip action: This normally applies to traditional three-piece float rods that need a 'tip or tippy action' to be able to whip out light floats when casting, as well as pick-up line very quickly on the strike.

Through action: A rod that has a softer top section but still produces a cushioned bend throughout its entire length, giving a good fish-playing action.

Parabolic Action: A rod that can bend throughout its length but stiffens towards its butt section, providing a controlled cushioning action when playing a fish.

Rod taper: How a rod changes in diameter along its length. A fast taper rod will typically thicken up very quickly as you move away from the tip. Although other factors come into play, like carbon types, weave and construction, typically, a fast taper rod will bend more at the tip than the butt (tip actioned).

frequently asked questions

Will a rod with a bigger casting weight or test curve rating cast further?

Yes, when combined with extra length, you will be able to achieve greater distances with the correct technique and a weight that matches the rod. Be aware that the more powerful your rod, the stronger the line and hooks you will need to use to prevent fish losses, which could in turn mean you fooling less fish into taking your bait to start off with.

Should I choose a cork or EVA handled rod?

This all comes down to personal preference. Cork is lightweight, transmits more feeling to your hands when playing a fish and looks great. EVA however is cheaper and more durable. Many rods have an abbreviated or combined cork/EVA handle, with the material best suited to a particular part of the handle used to give the best of both worlds.

Should I choose a rod that will cast the furthest distance that I will want to fish?

No, you should choose a rod that best suits the distance that you want to fish at. A rod that is too long and powerful will make casting short distances with any kind of accuracy difficult and will have a poor fish playing action. This is why all rod ranges feature models of varying lengths and powers.

Can I use the same rod for both float a feeder fishing?

Not generally, no. Barbel rods are designed to be much more powerful and therefore heavier, making them very cumbersome to hold all day. They also have a poor line pick up speed making them very difficult and inefficient to use for float fishing.

What are rod test curves and what do they mean?

Quite simply it is the weight required to pull a rod tip to a 90-degree angle to the rod butt when the rod is held in an upright position. They can also be used as a rough rule of thumb guide for the rods weight casting potential.

Why are some of the rods so stiff?

Some of the more powerful rods are designed to be stiff to reduce recoil and improve their recovery rate to aid casting a long way. With the minimal amount of tip movement after casting, friction is reduced which prevents the line slowing down the cast, allowing for further casting.

What is the best rod to buy for barbel fishing?

Unfortunately, there is no one size fits all rod due to the varying methods and environments barbel can be found in. Some rivers require stealth and finesse, whilst others require a much more aggressive approach, with heavy baiting and big feeders. It is best to ask yourself what type of situation you will be fishing the most. If your venue responds to roving around rolling baits, there is little point you buying an expensive rod that is heavy and will make holding it all day impractical. Conversely, a lighter rod will be little use at casting large feeders into a strong current on large rivers like the Trent.

Author Aidan Bordiuk is an enthusiastic angler who enjoys all fishing disciplines from match fishing to beach casting. He is currently occupying the position of Commercial Content Writer at Angling Times.